The Rice Paddy

Written by Harold McNeill on November 24th, 2016. Posted in Travelogue


Boy in School3

Student at a Cambodian Country School (photo by Esther Dunn)

We had the good fortune to visit an elementary school in a remote area along one of the tributaries of the Mekong River, a place where welcoming and exuberant children could barely wait to demonstrate their English language skills. “What’s your name.” and “How old are you?” were the favourites, but that was just the opening of two hours of interaction with the students.

Lynn and I spent part of our time with a ten-year-old boy (photo above) who appeared to be the oldest in the class. Although a bit shy, he focused intensely on getting the wording of his questions correct, then intently listened as we answered. Had he been born forty years earlier, he could well have been the boy featured in part of the story below.

Part I: Introduction to SE Asia and a Short Story from Cambodia

To gain an understanding of the progress the people of Indochina have made over the past 25 years, take a few minutes first to watch the three slideshows linked in the footer. While incredible natural and manmade beauty greet you at every turn; the happy, healthy and carefree people you see at school, work and play today, contrasts sharply with immense challenges the people faced from 1940 – 1990. Perhaps you are aware of these challenges and the progress made, but we weren’t and the more we learned, the more amazing it all became.

This series begins with a short, personal story which took place in Cambodia in the late 1980’s, a story of one boy’s quest to survive. His story was similar to that experienced by thousands of men, women and children whose lives were taken or shattered by war, genocide, starvation and disease. This story was related to us over several parts by our Cambodian guide and takes place during the hight of the Pol Pop genocide.

The Rice Paddy

Standing motionless by a small tree in the middle of a rice patty, the setting sun silhouetted the young man’s emaciated body and ragged clothes. He wondered if darkness might bring relief from the pain of making a decision that, if wrong, might well result in the deaths of he and his family. Throughout the day he had collected his mandatory quota of rat tails, and it was those rat tails which lead directly to the crisis he faced.

A kilometer away, his father, mother and young sister patiently awaited his arrival as they prepared another starvation sized portion of rice and weak tea. To the family, that meal, the ragged clothes and the makeshift shelter in which they lived, was a daily reminder of the lives they lost in the Phnom Penn, as was another daily companion – the fear of being put to death for breaking some arbitrary farm rule.

Just beyond the rice paddy, the Mekong River flowed peacefully to the South China Sea as it had for hundreds of thousands of years, yet not one thing in the lives of the boy or his family was peaceful. At one point the boy considered running away as had others, but he could not abandon his family. As he struggled with a decision he alone must make, and with rat tails in hand, he began the trek home.

His story will be continued momentarily, but first a bit more background.

First-time travelers to Cambodia, Viet Nam or Laos today may not realize these countries only recently emerged from fifty years of war that killed an estimated three million men, women, and children. I know we didn’t. We knew a bit about the Viet Nam War and the Cambodian genocide, but that was the limit of our knowledge.  Beyond those killed, horrific injuries caused by the wars when combined with starvation and disease claimed millions more.

While what happened from 1940 – 1990, remains close to the surface for those who lived through part or all of those desperate years, the young of today, who now represent a majority in all three countries (Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos) have chosen to focus on the present and future as their way of healing the deep wounds of the past.

In gathering notes and photos in preparation for writing this travelogue, the intention was to focus on the natural wonders of Indochina, particularly the areas in which we traveled. But, after meeting so many people and hearing their stories, the realization that as westerners from first world countries, many of our preconceived notions were wrong. The following five parts describe our experience:

Part I:   Introduction and a short story
Part II:  Indochina Wars: 1940 – 1990
Part III: Resilience of the Human Spirit (password protected as it is being completed)
Part IV  The Future Belongs to the Young
Part V:   River Cruising with Uniworld  (currently being written)

Also, three slideshows and several linked photo albums, provide a pictorial record of the people we met and the places we visited.

There is no question we became enamoured of the people, and while only so much could be learned in a short, first-time visit, the fact we quickly became immersed in the culture made it impossible to miss the resilience of these spirited people. Many lived through the worst the world has to offer, yet bounced back without missing a beat. Do you think we could be that strong in the Western World? In the past perhaps, but now?

The short history in Part II, provides the backdrop, while general descriptions of life today is provided in Part III, along with suggestions of why so much was accomplished in such a short time (1990 – 2016). While I have strived for accuracy, errors will no doubt have crept in. If you think a correction is needed, please drop me a line, and I will make the necessary change.

Our traveling group owes a great deal to our tour guides as well as the Uniworld team leaders and staff who spent hours and days shepherding us around and explaining the nuances of cultures that, in many ways, remain a mystery to Westerners. In the West we take much for granted and, as well, we have a tendency to make invidious comparisons between people, cultures and religions. We learned a lot from the people of Viet Nam and Cambodia as they most certainly view the world in a more positive and peaceful manner than ourselves.

Perhaps one way to begin improving our society would be arranging to have as many of our citizens as possible spend a few months immersed in another culture that exhibits characteristics we admire yet seem unable to achieve.

Now, back to the Rice Paddy:

It was dark as he made his way home, but the boy was not afraid as he knew every inch of the rice paddies he worked, and, as well, he was comforted by the animals and birds that were his constant companions. All that is, except for the rats and even for them he held no animosity. The boy was just doing what he had to in order to survive.

As our tour guide told the story, tears welled in his eyes. While other events, including the Viet Nam War, were hard for Cambodia and surrounding countries, Pol Pot’s rise to power in 1975, was the most brutal. After forming thousands of collective farms, his army, the Khmer Rouge, began to empty cities and towns as he forced people to move to the farms. Anyone who dared resist, including their families, was immediately executed.

Shortly after being escorted to their farm plot, rats that had overrun the rice paddies during the Viet Nam war, were declared a public enemy because they consumed so much rice. Every boy approaching or in his early teens was ordered to kill thirty rats a day and deliver the tails to the man in charge of the collective. Failure to reach the quota was not an option. Failure meant a severe, one-time warning.

No further failures were allowed, and the consequences were brutal – an escorted trip to a ‘re-education camp”. These camps, as everyone came to realize, were nothing less than killing fields that, from 1975 t0 1979, numbered in the hundreds across Cambodia. Over a four-year period, between 1975 and 1979, an estimated one million people were exterminated, or roughly 20% of the population of 1975.

One day as the boy struggled to meet his quota, good fortune fell upon him when he discovered a place where birds of prey regularly fed upon rats. It was easy for the birds to find rats as they could not only cover a wide area, they were able to silently swoop down, scoop up a rat, then settle in for lunch. For some reason, the birds flocked to specific trees, and while there they ate most of each carcass, but not the tail.

It was near the tree where the boy was standing that he discovered dozens of partially buried rat tails. From this one location he was easily able to meet his daily quota, but, the discovery brought a terrible dilemma. Should he tell anyone? If he didn’t, the outcome for some was evident, but if he did, the supply would soon be gone, then he and his family might well pay the price.

Late that night as he walked home he resolved to keep the location secret and would use it only when needed to help others. Each day he always took extra tails to share with those who fell short and while he couldn’t save everyone, he could save a few. Such was the brutal way of life that developed under Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. The man telling the story, our tour guide, was that boy of some forty-five years earlier.

Our guides childhood was shattered by a dictator who placed personal interest above all else, but it was not only dictators and their supporters who killed and maimed. While many may remember or be aware of the Viet Nam War, that war was only one small part of 100 consecutive years during which some combination of colonialism, war, genocide, occupation and civil strife, devastated the people of Indochina.

As the writing of the five posts coincided with Remembrance Day, November 11, 2016, it is fitting to again remember those who died in the Forgotten Wars of Indochina – in particular, the people of Viet Nam, Laos and in the Killing Fields of Cambodia.

Next, Part II provides a partial summary. (Link Here: Indochina Wars: 1940 – 1990.)

Harold
(email: lowerislandsoccer@shaw.ca)

Photo Albums     (Slideshows Below)

The mighty Mekong: Lifeblood of Indcochina: Life Along the Mekong
Our travel companions and those we met along the way: Friends
Hanoi and Saigon – 12 million friendly, busy people:  Cities and People
The glue that binds the past, present and future: Spiritualism in Indochina
The arts have never died in Indochina: Music, Dance and Art
Get Fresh, is a way of life in Viet Nam and Cambodia: From Farm to Market
Two developing nations: a place where everyone wants to learn and work: Schools and Factories
Pedestrians and people have learned how to share the road: In one word – Respect
Two nations of small farms provides food for 105,000,000, with plenty left over for the rest of the world: Farms and Villages

Slideshows:

Cambodia
(Cambodian Flute Music and Robain Neary Chea Chuor)

Hello Viet Nam
(Music: Hello Viet Nam: Quynh Anh)

The Mighty Mekong
(Music: North Star: The Mighty Mekong)

 

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  • Maurice Smook

    August 13, 2016 |

    Hi Jillian,

    I don’t know if you are still checking this site but I had to respond again. February of 2017 it will be 72 years since this battle occurred.

    What caught my attention about this incident was on the Go Deep Documentary that aired on the History Channel. First of all I never known that this battle having ever occurred.

    According to my grade 3 teacher WW2 had never occurred. That grade 3 teacher stated that the WW2 and the holocaust was all propaganda. All of my classmates they believed her. I hate to say this but all I knew was that soldiers shooting at each other.

    I almost was expelled from school. My

    Mom my Dad my brother and my Uncle would have been arrested for propaganda. I paid the price. It was ironic a grade 5 teacher told me that Smooks are all commies. Dad was Conservative.

    All the Smooks that I known are all Conservative. If I had the money I would have loved to sue those two teachers.

    As I said I never heard of this Battle. If it were not for that program I would have never had known.

    I started to do more researching to find out more about the history of this battle. The narrator of Go Deep mentioned the names of the pilots who died that battle.

    I missed 20 minutes of that program but the camera crew had the camera’s pointed towards the sign with the names of the deceits. That is how I known.

    According to the narrator There are three who are still missing. W.J. Jackson, Harry Smook and A. Duckworth. A couple of months ago the staff of Go Deep have located Harry and A. Duckworths aircraft. This is on you tube. Harry and A. Duckworth craft is approx 650 feet deep in the Fjord. The individual who is heading this expansionary mission made it known he will not rest until all three of the missing pilots
    will be retrieved. I am sure that A. Duckworth’s kin are hoping for the same.

    What really puzzles me is that I have sent emails to the Smooks. Not one ever replying. I presume its the same with you. Sad. Dad rarely spoke about his family. It appears there is a big secret of the Smooks. I too assume Harry is a kin to my Dad. Harry maybe a 4th 5th cousin to my Dad. I too would like to know. Harry and A. Duckworth served and died for our country. The other is W.j. Jackson – who is also still missing – having died for our Country.

    In conclusion I still ask myself why is this a huge secret.

    If you are still checking this site please contact me. Maybe we may be kin.

    Take care.

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  • Valerie Heuman (Roddick)

    June 19, 2016 |

    Having just returned to the Okanagan Valley from a weekend in Pibroch, I am delighted to have stumbled on your blog to see the picture of the main street. My aunt and uncle Peggy & Gordon McGillvery owned and lived in the old Post Office on the North east corner of the main intersection and my brother Adrian currently lives south a bit backing on the School yard. We are Sheila’s cousins and still have a close connection to the town.

  • Sheila(Roddick) Allison

    May 19, 2016 |

    Hi. So fun to find your blog. I remember going to school with you and Louise. I loved my childhood in Pibroch which incidentally was named by my grandfather Aaron Roddick. I will never forget the night the garage burned down. Nice to see the landmark photo before the big fire!

  • George Dahl

    April 12, 2016 |

    What a great site. I’m trying to locate a woman named Sally Jennifer who was from the Cold Lake area back in the early sixties. I met her when I was stationed at Namao air base in Edmonton. I was serving with the USAF 3955 air refueling squadron from rhe fall 1963 till the spring of 64. Sally was 22 at the time I was 21. Sally was my first love. I had orders to ship out to South East Asia and we lost contact after that.
    If any of you know the where abouts of Sally I would like to get reacquainted with her. She is First Nation, Blackfoot I believe. She is Catholic and may have attended a Catholic school in Cold Lake.
    Thank You in advance, George Dahl

  • dave armit

    March 23, 2016 |

    good old fashioned police work done by good old fashioned policemen……….in regards to mr cain..i learned a few years ago that he was born on the same day in the same hospital that i was..my father was a close friend of the cain family…!!! interesting..d a

  • Joyce McMenamon

    March 1, 2016 |

    Haha, love it! We should probably eat rats and rabbits rather than beef. Also I’ve noticed that there are a lot less pests where dogs are not kept on leashes.

  • Kari

    February 27, 2016 |

    Thanks for a wonderful trip down memory lane Dad!!! That was an amazing trip and I am so glad that we had the opportunity to share that experience together!
    ❤️